Charmoula with Preserved Lemon

So speaking of jazzing up fish...

Last week I had two plump halibut fillets ready to go for dinner, but I was fearful of falling into the same old rut of serving the fish with a vinaigrette. A couple weeks ago I was successful at avoiding the vicious-vinaigrette-cycle, trying my hand at a yuzu-kosho butter sauce. I wanted to continue in a similar vein, attempting something new.

I randomly grabbed an enticing cookbook off the shelf that I haven't used nearly as much as I should, Moroccan Modern by Hassan M'Souli. Within moments I had my solution. Not only had I figured out what to do with the halibut, I had also found a fantastic way to take advantage of my new batch of preserved lemons.

Charmoula with preserved lemons was the answer. Charmoula is a common North African marinade or garnish made with herbs, oil, preserved lemons and spices. This particular charmoula also relies heavily on chopped raw onion. I'll confess that this made me a wee bit nervous, but I soldiered on and can report no ill effects.

All this recipe requires is a dash of chopping and a smidgen of stirring and the result is a symphony for your olfactory system. And then when you finally taste the charmoula?

Dynamite!

This charmoula possesses powerful flavor. The onion and garlic give a kick. The chiles lend heat. Extraordinary freshness comes from the cilantro and parsley. The cumin seeds and paprika introduce a seductive exoticism, while the real mystery is created by the saffron threads and the use of an entire preserved lemon.

I can vouch for M'Souli's assertion that this charmoula works wonderfully with baked fish. I'd also like to test it out on roast chicken and I'm certain it would shine on a simple carrot soup. It keeps for a few days in the refrigerator, but I liked it best the evening it was made.

Charmoula with Preserved Lemon

1 teaspoon cumin seeds

2 red onions, diced

4 large garlic cloves crushed

1 cup cilantro, finely chopped

1 cup flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped

2 red birds-eye chiles, finely chopped

1 preserved lemon, diced

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1/2 teaspoon saffron threads

1 teaspoon ground paprika

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 teaspoon sea salt

Extra-virgin olive oil, to cover

Combine all the ingredients thoroughly. Spoon into a jar and cover with a film of olive oil. Keep in the refrigerator for up to 4 days.

Makes approximately 4 cups

Dinner Diary: 7/04/10 -- Fourth of July Tri-Tip

• Soy-Marinated, Grilled Prime Tri-Tip
• Grilled Zucchini & Tiny Baby Red Onions
• Peewee Potatoes
• Salsa Verde on the Side

Our dear friends, Rita and Joseph, turned us on to Alexander's Prime Meats in San Gabriel after Dim Sum on Saturday. Alexander's has been an institution in San Gabriel for over forty years. You'll find them in the back of Howie's Market on San Gabriel Blvd.

How did I miss them? The L.A. Weekly voted them best butcher in 2003 -- very clear why.

Their beef is gorgeous, dry-aged prime.

Just look at the marbling on that tri-tip!

Well worth the drive and Fe's cries of protest.

The ultra-high-quality meat combined with a simple marinade -- 1/4 cup soy, 1/4 cup olive oil, 2 tablespoons water, 4 cloves chopped garlic -- set the stage for a fabulous piece of meat.

A. sealed the deal.

Turns out that he is a grill-master!

That tri-tip could not have been cooked more perfectly -- exceptional char and cooked à point (right in between medium-rare and rare).

I was swooning.

Overall a lovely, albeit low-key, Fourth.

The cops weren't even pissed when they drove by our house and saw A. standing there with a sparkler flashing in his hand.

They just laughed and drove on.

Alexander's Prime Meats & Catering

6580 N. San Gabriel Blvd.

San Gabriel, CA 91775