Charmoula with Preserved Lemon

So speaking of jazzing up fish...

Last week I had two plump halibut fillets ready to go for dinner, but I was fearful of falling into the same old rut of serving the fish with a vinaigrette. A couple weeks ago I was successful at avoiding the vicious-vinaigrette-cycle, trying my hand at a yuzu-kosho butter sauce. I wanted to continue in a similar vein, attempting something new.

I randomly grabbed an enticing cookbook off the shelf that I haven't used nearly as much as I should, Moroccan Modern by Hassan M'Souli. Within moments I had my solution. Not only had I figured out what to do with the halibut, I had also found a fantastic way to take advantage of my new batch of preserved lemons.

Charmoula with preserved lemons was the answer. Charmoula is a common North African marinade or garnish made with herbs, oil, preserved lemons and spices. This particular charmoula also relies heavily on chopped raw onion. I'll confess that this made me a wee bit nervous, but I soldiered on and can report no ill effects.

All this recipe requires is a dash of chopping and a smidgen of stirring and the result is a symphony for your olfactory system. And then when you finally taste the charmoula?

Dynamite!

This charmoula possesses powerful flavor. The onion and garlic give a kick. The chiles lend heat. Extraordinary freshness comes from the cilantro and parsley. The cumin seeds and paprika introduce a seductive exoticism, while the real mystery is created by the saffron threads and the use of an entire preserved lemon.

I can vouch for M'Souli's assertion that this charmoula works wonderfully with baked fish. I'd also like to test it out on roast chicken and I'm certain it would shine on a simple carrot soup. It keeps for a few days in the refrigerator, but I liked it best the evening it was made.

Charmoula with Preserved Lemon

1 teaspoon cumin seeds

2 red onions, diced

4 large garlic cloves crushed

1 cup cilantro, finely chopped

1 cup flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped

2 red birds-eye chiles, finely chopped

1 preserved lemon, diced

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1/2 teaspoon saffron threads

1 teaspoon ground paprika

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 teaspoon sea salt

Extra-virgin olive oil, to cover

Combine all the ingredients thoroughly. Spoon into a jar and cover with a film of olive oil. Keep in the refrigerator for up to 4 days.

Makes approximately 4 cups

Madhur Jaffrey's Ground Lamb with Tomatoes & Peas

I've been stuck in a bit of a rut lately. The food has been good over here, yes, but I've been itching for something different. It's been all slow braises and roast vegetables and steaks and roast meats and sautéed greens. I'm not complaining, but when I look at what I was eating one year ago and it's almost identical to what I had two nights ago, I realize it's time to shake things up.

Part of the problem is that being a mother of a two and a half year old means that the days of lazing around finding inspiration in cookbooks and culinary magazines and food blogs are -- at least for now -- long gone. I miss that.

The other issue is that I'm trying to get in tip-top shape. I'm eating more healthily (trying to!), running five times a week and going to boot camp. We're considering another kiddo, and I'd like to start out on better footing this time around, especially since last time I gained 50 pounds! All of that makes being a diverse cook and food blogger somewhat challenging.

Last night, quite accidentally, things took a turn towards the more exotic. I had purchased some ground lamb, knowing that I'd be able to -- flying by the seat of my pants -- whip something up with what I had in the pantry. Skimming through cookbooks, I realized I wasn't really in the mood for the usual meatballs or lamb burgers.

I randomly yanked Madhur Jaffrey's Quick & Easy Indian Cooking off the shelf and lo and behold, under the rather unassuming name, Ground Lamb with Tomatoes and Peas, was exactly what I was looking for. And serendipitously I had ever single ingredient on hand. Things are looking up, folks.

I have no idea why I don't cook more Indian food at home. It's a big mistake not to. I was so excited about last night's dinner that I'm up at 6:30 in the morning writing about it. The smell of the onion, garlic and ginger frying in the pan was enough to sell me on the dish, but then add the whole coriander and cumin seed, turmeric, cayenne, and garam masala (finally using my little stash!) and then fresh cilantro. The mix of aromas and flavors was fantastic, with two tablespoons of lemon juice brightening the whole affair brilliantly.

Just a quarter cup of plain yogurt (I used nonfat with no complaints, but whole would probably be even better), one chopped tomato, and a cup of water turn heavily spiced onions into an effortless and impressive Indian sauce for the ground lamb and peas (frozen are fine here). The lamb is a bit soupy, which really appeals to me and just begs to be spooned over a heap of rice.

Feel free to go nuts on the heat in this dish. I used a very scant half teaspoon of cayenne and a smallish fresno chile, because that's what we have growing in the garden right now. The heat was just warming really, not at all over the top. You could easily -- and I think appropriately -- use a serrano or two for those of you (I mean us) who like it really hot.

Plus, Jaffrey isn't kidding when she says quick and easy. The ground lamb with tomatoes and peas requires very little chopping. You can actually whiz the onions, garlic, and ginger in the food processor (slightly more washing up) to obtain the fine chop you need. The rest is sautéing in a pan and then an extended simmer. Make a pot of basmati rice and perhaps one additional vegetable -- if you're compulsive about vegetables like I am -- and dinner is done. I added sliced mango, because it's my favorite and fresh mango and Indian food are made for each other.

Ground Lamb with Tomatoes & Peas

1 small onion (about 4 ounces), peeled and coarsely chopped

2-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and coarsely chopped

5 to 6 large cloves garlic, peeled and coarsely chopped

1/4 cup vegetable oil

1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1 teaspoon cumin seeds

1 teaspoon coriander seeds

1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric

1 medium-sized tomato (about 7 ounces), chopped

1/4 cup plain yogurt

1 1/4 pounds ground lamb

1 1/4 teaspoons salt

2 teaspoons store-bought garam masala

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1 fresh, hot green chili, chopped (do not remove seeds)

6 tablespoons coarsely chopped fresh cilantro

1 cup peas, fresh or frozen

Place the onion, ginger, and garlic into the container of a food processor and pulse until you achieve a fine chop or simply chop the onion, ginger, and garlic finely yourself.

Pour the oil into a wide, nonstick pan over medium-high heat. Once the oil is hot, add the onion, garlic, and ginger mixture. Fry, stirring until it is moderately browned. Add the cayenne, cumin seeds, coriander seeds, and turmeric, stirring. Add the yogurt and tomato, and adjust the heat to high. Stir frequently until the tomato is soft. Add the lamb, salt, and garam masala. Stir until you have broken up the lumps. Add 1 cup of water. Stir and bring the mixture to a simmer. Cover the pan and reduce the heat to low. Simmer for 25 minutes. Add the lemon juice, green chili, cilantro and peas, stirring. Bring to a simmer and cover, cooking over low heat to meld the flavors for an additional 10 minutes.

Serves 4-6

Hainanese Chicken with Rice

So as I mentioned previously, Mark Bittman was my saviour, twice last week. He could be yours, too! His Hainanese Chicken with Rice is a fantastically delicious, relatively healthy, easy to make, curative. You can find it in his ever-handy How To Cook Everything

Everyone I know is sick or is just recovering from horrible snotty, phlegmy illnesses. This recipe might just nurse you and your loved ones back from the brink.

You won't see me writing about poultry that often, because A. is a hater. Yes, it's tough to deal with, but he has so many other wonderful and endearing qualities that I am learning to live with this major flaw. I usually confine my chicken cookery to Wednesdays when A. has his radio show and comes home too late for dinner. Fe. and I go to town! Hainanese chicken and rice is a favorite of ours.

This recipe produces a vat of chicken stock fragrant with garlic and ginger. You can easily sip or slurp your way to health for the better part of a week with the stock that remains after the rice is made.

I had no idea you could do this, but the gentle poaching of the chicken that takes place mainly occurs with no flame under your pot. You bring a very large pot of water up to boil, and you add your chicken, smashed garlic and ginger and salt. You simmer for ten minutes and then turn off the flame. The chicken bathes in the hot liquid for an hour and presto, your chicken is done.

I dig that.

The rice is made by sautéing chopped garlic, shallot and the raw rice, itself, in peanut oil and then simmering it in the stock you have just prepared. It is mighty tasty, if a little on the oily side. I kind of like that, though.

The rice is topped with shredded chicken, sliced cucumber and tomatoes, chopped green onions and a generous handful of chopped cilantro. I didn't bother peeling the Persian cucumbers I used, and I chose halved cherry tomatoes in lieu of whole ones.

A super-quick-to-prepare dipping sauce of peanut oil, chopped ginger, chopped green onion and salt is served on the side. It's amazing that what may just seem like a small bowl of oil, is actually a savory and quite addictive little sauce. Watch out, because this is where a relatively healthy dish can quickly take a turn for the dark side. It's a dipping sauce, not a pour-the-whole-bowl-on-your-plate sauce, Jacqueline!

A little drizzle of sesame oil enriches the flavor. I also like to serve a little dish of the broth alongside for warmth and comfort. Bittman serves the dish on a platter mounded high with the chicken and surrounded by the chopped vegetables. I prefer to make individual portions, as below.

Hainanese chicken presents beautifully, and appeals to just about everyone except my darling, A.

Tant pis.

Hainanese Chicken with Rice

1 whole (3- to 4- pound) chicken, trimmed of excess fat

Several cloves smashed garlic, plus 1 teaspoon minced garlic

Several slices fresh ginger, plus 1 tablespoon minced ginger

1/2 cup peanut oil, or neutral oil like canola

3 shallots, roughly chopped, or a small onion roughly chopped

2 cups long-grain rice

1/2 cup minced scallions

2 cucumbers peeled and sliced

2 tomatoes slices

Chopped fresh cilantro leaves

2 tablespoons sesame oil

Salt and freshly ground pepper

Bring a large pot of water to boil and salt it. Add the chicken to the pot along with the smashed garlic and sliced ginger. The chicken should be completely, but just, submerged. Cover and reduce heat to medium and cook for 10 minutes. Turn off the heat and let the chicken remain in the hot water for an hour, until it is cooked through.

Remove the chicken from the pot, reserve the stock, and let the chicken cool to room temperature. Put half the peanut oil in a skillet or medium dutch oven. When hot, add the remaining garlic and the shallots. Cook, stirring every so often until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Add rice and cook, stirring until shiny. Add 4 cups of the reserved stock and boil. Reduce the heat to low and cover. Cook for 20 minutes, until all the liquid has been absorbed. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Make the dipping sauce with the remaining oil, ginger, half the scallions, and a large pinch of salt.

Shred the chicken, discarding the skin. Put the rice on a large platter and mound the chicken on top. Sprinkle with the cucumbers, tomatoes, remaining scallions, and cilantro. Drizzle with the sesame oil and serve with the dipping sauce.

Corn with Cherry Tomatoes & Aleppo Pepper

We don't need to have a big conversation about this one.

I've made a variation of this dish many times this summer. I think I've got it where I like it best. Quick, easy, substantial, and kind of exciting. This corn won't blow your mind, but I bet it will keep you wanting more.

I cut the kernels off the cob before cooking them. Some do this the other way around. I'm not sure that it matters.

Shallot is sautéed with a few shakes of aleppo pepper and maybe one and at most two of crushed red pepper flakes. The corn is added and tossed or stirred around a bit. I like the corn with a bit of color on it. There's more nuttiness with the sweet that way. Add the cherry tomatoes and cook for a wee bit more. Throw in a handful or two of chopped cilantro. Salt and pepper.

Eat!

Lovely with salmon or really any protein for that matter. It's a very versatile side that would taste great with mint or basil. I've certainly used onion and garlic in lieu of shallot in a pinch.

The aleppo is key. I like the slightly fruity warmth it adds without too much heat. But you'll notice the addition of red pepper flakes, so I clearly I need a little.

Corn with Cherry Tomatoes & Aleppo Pepper

2 ears corn

15 or so cherry tomatoes or yellow pear tomatoes, halved

1 medium shallot, chopped

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

1 teaspoon aleppo pepper

1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper

Salt and pepper to taste

A handful or more cilantro, roughly chopped

Cut the kernels off the cob, shaving down into a large bowl. Heat the olive oil in a medium skillet over medium-high heat. Add the shallot and sauté until almost translucent, 5 minutes. Add the corn, aleppo, and crushed red pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally until the corn colors a bit, turning golden brown here and there. Season with salt and pepper. Add the tomatoes and toss a few times or stir a few times, until the tomatoes soften slightly. You don't want them to turn to mush. Remove from the heat and mix in the cilantro. Serve.

Serves 3